94 Probe SE

 

DynoDays Grillin and Chillin EEC-IV IAC Valve Maintenance

                            


J-spec intake manifold installation 11-2003 --->4-2004

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view of EGR tube new threaded slot onto header
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view of engine compartment
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view of intake area
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view of neutral safety switch
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view of spacer made for fuel rail

Additional parts needed for installation:
        fuel rail:

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    fuel rail strap:

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    EGR tube:

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Pittsburgh Area Probe Club Get-together, North Park Boathouse, 
Sunday August 11, 2002


IAC Valve Cleaning (7-28-2002):
This procedure is needed to fix an erratic idle, an idle out of range, or stalling.

Location of IAC Valve (near
intake):

Remove coolant line and electrical connector on the IAC
Remove the 3 phillips head and one tamper proof torx screw (# T-25) holding the cylindrical half of the IAC down. Here's a good tip: use a small pair of vice grips to loosen the screws before you put a screwdriver to them. You'll surely strip them with the screw driver if you try to break them loose with it. I also threw out that torx screw and put a regular phillips back in its place, in case I need to do this again
Carefully remove the outer half of the IAC valve. Be real cautious here, there are parts inside it are spring loaded. Make note of how they are assembled and how they fit in the half of the IAC that is still connected to the engine.
  Remove the small piston, spring, and other components from the IAC Valve housing. Clean them with carburetor cleaning spray
  Clean the piston's chamber but DO NOT spray the cleaner directly in the valve housing. Use a piece of paper towel, or a small, soft brush to get any deposits out
  Clean the other half of the IAC (the part still on the engine), DO NOT spray the solvent directly in there either. I used a piece of soaked paper towel here also. (There is a sensitive thermowax in these parts that you are trying to protect)
  Reassemble everything and check that the piston moves freely. Reattach the IAC to the engine, making sure the rubber gasket sealing the two halves of the IAC will be seated properly. Connect the coolant and electrical lines
  Start the engine and check for coolant leaks around the hose you disconnected, and where the IAC halves seal together. Check for proper idle speed with engine cold and hot. Idle should be 650-750 rpm hot
IAC Valve removed from Car:
Clean the piston and spring with some Gummout You must not spray the Gummout inside the piston's chamber, or you will melt it if the solvent sits in there. Just soak a paper towel with some Gummout and rub it on the inside so that no residue is left.
Reinstall IAC Valve. Car may need its  computer reset, to do so, remove the negative battery cable and press on the brakes for 30 seconds. Reconnect battery. For the next few miles of driving, the car may even stall due  to the computer re-learning its idle, this is normal so don't worry.

 


Brake caliper replacement (4-6-2002):

 

Old caliper assembly:     New Caliper Assembly (custom painted white):

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DSC00360.JPG (88714 bytes) Bleeding the brakesDSC00363.JPG (92555 bytes)

Out of the shop (11-21-2001):

In the shop Winter 2001:

Head all cleaned up, on the bench for porting and polishing:

Engine compartment without the head, pistons showing:

 

Useful Part Numbers
F72Z13451CA Left aussi tail light
F72Z13A565AA Center Aussi tail light
F72713450CA Right aussi tail light
F32Z6164417H Driver's side seat cover, upper, gray
F32Z6162901H Driver's side seat cover, lower, gray
F42Z3N824A Power steering pressure switch
KA7850796A front cowl caps - oval - pk of 8
KA7850797A front cowl caps - pack of 10
E92Z 6143268A liftgate dovetail
E92Z 17603 B rear wiper spray nozzle
8

9

10

  rear wiper
F32Z 17526 C rear wiper arm

 

 

 

 

Created by Scott Amoroso