1. Insert a 0.15 mm (0.006 inch) feeler gauge between the stopper and the throttle body lever.

Throttle Position Sensor

1. Continuity should exist between terminals as shown.
2. Insert a 0.50 mm (0.020 inch) feeler gauge between the stopper and the throttle body lever.
3. Continuity should not exist between terminals as shown.

If not within specifications, adjust the throttle position sensor. Tighten the throttle position sensor screws to 2 Nm (14-20 lb in).

Before performing the Engine Compression Test, check the battery. The battery must be fully charged, in good condition and properly connected. If the battery is not fully charged, recharge or replace it. 

Compression Gauge Check
1. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.
2. Turn the engine off.
3. Remove the spark plugs.
4. For the 2.5L, disconnect the 3-pin and 6-pin distributor connectors to eliminate fuel flow and spark.
5. For the 2.0L, disconnect the 4-pin distributor connector and the ignition coil electrical connector to eliminate fuel flow and spark.
6. Install Compression Tester tightly into the spark plug hole.
7. To maximize air flow depress the accelerator pedal to Wide Open Throttle (WOT) while cranking the engine.
8. Normally, the first compression stroke will run the gauge indicator needle a considerable distance up the scale. Succeeding strokes will raise it slightly more until the highest level is shown (this will require at least four or five compression strokes). Record the highest reading. 
Test Results
Repeat steps 6-8 above for each cylinder and compare the readings with the following specifications. 
• For the 2.0L engine, compression should be 1179 kPa (171 psi) with a minimum of 820 kPa (119 psi). 
• For the 2.5L engine, compression should be 1400 kPa (203 psi) with a minimum of 980 kPa (142 psi). 
Remember that the engine must be at normal operating temperature and the throttle plate must be open. 
Compression Readings — Interpreting
- Examine the readings for all of the cylinders. Pressure variation between the highest and lowest cylinders should be within 75 percent of one another. 
- Variations between cylinders will have a greater effect upon engine performance than overall readings that are even but slightly below specifications. 
- When taking compression readings, watch the action of the gauge needle. When it raises only a small amount on the first stroke, a little more on succeeding strokes, and results in a very LOW reading; burned, sticky or warped valve(s) are indicated. 
- A low build-up on the first stroke with a gradual build-up on succeeding strokes to a moderate reading can mean worn, stuck, or scored piston rings. 
- If two adjacent cylinders are low, a blown head gasket or warped cylinder head to cylinder block surface could be responsible. 
- Add one teaspoon of heavy (30W minimum) engine oil to a cylinder with a low reading. Insert the compression gauge and recheck the cylinder. Crank the engine for a few extra compression strokes and watch the gauge. If the compression goes up 10 percent or more, worn piston rings are indicated. If the addition of the oil produces no significant change, valve trouble, a broken piston ring or a blownhead gasket is probably causing the low reading. 
If the compression pressure exceeds specifications, there is a build-up of carbon on the head of the piston (6108) and on the cylinder walls. IF CARBON BUILD-UP IS PRESENT, AND IS CAUSING PINGING THAT CANNOT BE STOPPED, THE CARBON SHOULD BE REMOVED BY RETARDING THE TIMING OR BY DISASSEMBLY OF THE ENGINE. 
Another sign of excessive carbon is "dieseling" (the engine continues to run after the ignition switch is turned OFF). Dieseling can be caused by glowing bits of carbon. Hard cranking can also indicate excessive compression from carbon build-up.